

The green and orange colors are quite typical of the phoenix contacts brand. It’s not a perfect match, but this model is very close: https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/printed-circuit-board-terminal-sptaf-1-7-35-il-1861988
The green and orange colors are quite typical of the phoenix contacts brand. It’s not a perfect match, but this model is very close: https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/printed-circuit-board-terminal-sptaf-1-7-35-il-1861988
For edits whithin a page, I use inkscape. Both program combined have covered all my needs until now.
Looks great!
If your are looking for pur aesthetics, I would recommend trimming the resistors/leds, and bending their leads before putting them on.
If you’d like some inspiration this guy has some of the best looking hand crafted electronics I’ve ever seen.
Actually, a least some cars (probably more than you think)/have some sort of “emergency” breaking signal, which often result in the usual breaking signal blinking for a while. You need to seriously slam the brakes to see it though. E.g: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=j_osu1WgGMU
There is also a nice technology connection video talking about braking lights for electric cars and in general, which can be dangerous.
Nice! Could you explain what it is or where to find more information about it? I was not able to find information online
We are working towards having a product properly packaged. This is a prototype that is not mature enough yet to justify the cost/time to package it. Moreover, this custom chip is used to measure ultra low currents (down to femto amps), so any packaging could potentially interfere with the measurement capabilities (-> no epoxy). It is however protected by a large shielding box, but it’s no use during assembly/modifications :/
The little gray wires should be all nice and straight. Even though your chip may be a good boi, touching it will wreak havoc on the wire bonding. Repairing the damage shown on the picture takes a skilled worker and very expensive equipment. Even then the repair is not fully guaranteed to be successful.
Hey! Props to you for trying something new. While the through hole components look OK, soldering large gauge wire can be quite tricky, especially if the soldering iron is not powerful. What soldering iron do you use? In these cases especially, it is important to wick the wire first, wick the soldering pad and finally assemble the two. Raising the iron temperature for this can also be useful (I sometimes use 400° or a bit higher). It is counter intuitive, but hotter iron means quicker soldering job, and less heat in the surrounding area (e.g cable’s insulator)