Anyone have any idea what is causing this? I’ve looked it up and found that at least for younger saplings. Some Browning can be normal in early spring, but none of the images had nearly this much Brown. There is barely any green left among the needles.
This looks dead. It’s normal to have some browning on the edges over winter but this isn’t what that looks like. Could be a drainage issue, could be some sort of infection, hard to say without knowing more. When you bend the branches do the bend or crumble and snap?
Branches are flexible and relatively soft, another user suggested I scratch the trunk to see if it’s green inside and it is so I think it is still alive fortunately!
You can also give it a little scratch. If it’s green, it’s alive… If it’s brown, it’s dead.
Scratched the trunk and it is green!
For now, at least. Keep an eye on it to make sure it has everything it needs and it might survive.

Looks like winter kill. This happens to young plants often. Sone species are more prone to it than others
Does it change anything if it only went brown after it started warming up outside and was green all through winter?
That’s what really indicates it was winter kill.
Winter kill is often caused by damage to the water transporting section of the plant (xylem). Think of it as a straw that connects the roots to the leaves. If you make hole in the straw, crush it, etc the water stops flowing. This is what likely happened here.
The majority of the water transporting parts of the stem were damaged. When the weather warmed up, and the plant came out of dormancy, the plant needed lots more water. It’s damaged system couldn’t keep up with the demand and tissues died.
Winter kill is most common because of rapid temperature changes. So a mild winter followed by a sudden polar blast that drops the temps by 50F or more will do it.
Do you know if redwood sapplings can survive in a low light environment like a garage over winter? What would be my best bet of getting one to make it?
Your best bet is to transplant it correctly in the ground this spring and let the plant get established this summer. Plants in pots are exposed much to more extreme temperature changes than if they are in the ground.
You can also cover them with some straw if the weather looks like it’s going for a sudden deep freeze and the trees are not covered in snow.
In general what is the best way to over-winter plants without planting them in the ground? Do you know? (I probably will move at some point and would like to take this with me so planting it isn’t my favorite option.)
I hate to tell you this, but that species won’t last long term in your neck of the woods. There was a guy in KY who decided to start growing redwood because it is illegal to harvest from the California stands. The trees made it a few years, maybe even over a decade. The first massive wind storm that went through once they were adolescent trees ripped them all up by the roots, because redwood/sequoia roots go wide, not deep. That also may be one of the issues having it in a pot. It may be root bound.
Will definitely check roots! thanks for the tip! (I kinda figured it wouldn’t hit its normal lifespan here, I just thought it would be fun to grow one cause they’re cool)
First, this is not a Sequoiadendron giganteum, i assure you. Not even Sequoia sempervirens nor Metasequoia glyptostroboides — all of them are simply called redwood, hence mistake is understandable. Could be a super rare form of this plant i’m not aware about, but it’s doubtful. [UPD here, now i can even tell with what exactly you’ve mixed it up — wasn’t it Taxodium distichum you’ve thought about? However, leaves there have more feather-like placement]
Interestingly, llms also made some identification mistakes (some confirm that it’s Sequoiadendron giganteum, some just “The plant in the image appears to be a Juniperus horizontalis, likely a cultivar such as ‘Copper Harbor’ or ‘Good Vibrations’ which can exhibit copper or bronze coloration seasonally or under stress.”) — Juniperus is very doubtful, since some of the species do have similarly looking branches and leaves’ (needles’) positioning on them, for example, Juniperus chinensis. But: branches of different age look differently (younger having small needles sitting close to branches, so they look like threads, and older ones looking much like yours. In other words: The leaves grow in two forms, juvenile needle-like leaves 5–10 millimetres (1⁄4–3⁄8 inch) long, and adult scale-leaves 1.5–3 mm long. Mature trees usually continue to bear some juvenile foliage as well as adult, particularly on shaded shoots low in the crown. This species is often dioecious (either male or female plants), but some individual plants produce both sexes of flowers. Nice facts to know about Junipers. Now, it’s for sure Cupressaceae family (no mistake here, since it also consists of Subfamily Sequoioideae, among others), now the correct subfamily in this case is Cupressoideae, one of the biggest survived species list among Cupressaceae family. Next step is genus identification. Here i can speed up the identification process and just select few genuses, which (along with their forms, if there any) are including common decorative species: Chamaecyparis, Juniperus and Thuja. Problem for identification: they are also the biggest genuses in Cupressoideae subfamily.
Now, in my opinion (which is unreliable) and after quick image search if it’s thuja, that’s probably T. occidentalis ‘Golden Tuffet’, but shrub silhouette itself isn’t quite like yours. If it’s juniper, that’s probably not Juniperus squamata (it’s more dense), more like some decorative form of Juniperus chinensis. Of course, there’s also Chamaecyparis, it easily could be some form of Chamaecyparis lawsoniana or Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Boulevard’ (nah, “soft needles”, yours visually aren’t). But i would not fuck with tens and hundreds of decorative forms. And i don’t think it’s Chamaecyparis or Thuja anyway. Now it’s important to identify all the stuff before treating it.
My opinion about it’s state: maybe, it was damaged by cold weather and it’s simply already dead. But they are quite resilient to weather conditions i’d say. So i, as i always do, would suspect the worse scenario — disease. Probably not parasites. Maybe virus or bacteria (worst possible, specimen quarantine immediately, no contact with other plants, especially of the same species; check for sure and if tests are positive — terminate the whole plant (burning is preferred) and make sure not to re-use soil it grew in or treat it with appropriate chemicals beforehand (if you have a license and can acquire them). Now, not the worst, but very common and troublesome enough scenario are fellow shrooms (fungal diseases or, simply, rot). Strong professional fungicides required, so, respective certificate probably too (depends on country, region or particular state). Theoretically, you can care about it blindly, not knowing exact species and disease. But result will be unpredictable. Here’s some useful [i hope] info on that matter: Example of common rot diseases for… Common diseases affecting Junipers include Cedar-apple rust, which causes galls on twigs, and Phomopsis blight, leading to tip dieback and browning of needles. Other issues include Cercospora needle blight and various twig blights caused by different fungi. Common diseases of Thuja include Arborvitae needle blight, caused by fungal pathogens like Pestalotiopsis and Phyllosticta, and Kabatina twig blight, which affects the tips of branches. Proper management includes pruning infected parts and applying fungicides when necessary. Chamaecyparis trees, like the Port Orford cedar and Lawson cypress, are susceptible to several diseases, including root rot caused by Phytophthora lateralis and Phytophthora cinnamomi, which can be fatal. They can also suffer from nursery blight, which causes tip dieback, and foliage browning due to environmental factors like dry seasons. Chamaecyparis genus’ species: Four species (C. lawsoniana, C. obtusa, C. pisifera, and C. thyoides) are of considerable importance as ornamental trees in horticulture; several hundred cultivars have been selected for various traits, including dwarf size, yellow, blue, silvery or variegated foliage, permanent retention of juvenile leaves, and thread-like shoots with reduced branching. In some areas, cultivation is limited by Phytophthora root rot diseases, with C. lawsoniana being particularly susceptible to P. lateralis. So after finding out which exact plant, or, at least, which exact disease it is, go on with treatment.
As for naming… it’s actually a common mistake to mix up plants called redwood. Many species of different subfamilies of Cupressaceae family are called so. But they are different species.
I got it from the johnsteen tree company and that’s what it is called on the tag (which is still on the tree) Here’s it’s wiki https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sequoiadendron_giganteum
Tree companies also can make mistakes. However, me too. But i’m telling you: it’s leaves and branches look nothing like Sequoiadendron giganteum. Find a professional dendrologist (best option) or at least landscape designer or architect, advanced gardener. Find out for sure before taking any action on plant.
Turned out i was wrong and you are correct all the time — the way leaves look like is because they’re dried. That solely made me dig too much. And it is, in fact, specimen of Sequoiadendron giganteum. Excuse me and i am very sorry for providing false information about plant. But again, please, consider professional help healing it, if it’s still possible. Have a great day 👋🏼


